Recife and Bahia – Brasil Negro
For the past two and a half weeks, I’ve had a change of scenery from the dusty, scorching hot state I know as Ceara to Recife, Pernambuco and Salvador, Bahia, two marvelous cities and states which lie directly south of Ceara. I arrived in Recife two weeks ago and was amazed that the entire city is green. Recife is about the size of Fortaleza, somewhere around a metropolitan area of 2.5 million people. Recife was also one of the first places the Portuguese came, and it’s a center of preservation of Northeastern Culture, however it is still a city struggling with racism and equal rights for its majority population who are Afro-Brasilians. I happened to go to a museum which is preserving Northeastern Culture in a Brasil which many of us perceive to be that of Rio de Janeiro or Sao Paulo. The museum was heavily oriented towards the Portuguese and their enslavements of Western Africans, specifically peoples from Nigeria, Angola, and Mocambique. We consistently viewed the city’s struggle for equal rights for its African descendant population. What distinguishes Brazil’s vision of race compared to the United States’, is that the problem is not black and white when you have a population which has been interracially connected for generations. I definitely saw the difference in opinion when we visited the movimento negro in Recife, which was a movement for empowering Afro-Brasilians to recognize their roots to Africa. When we talked to some youth within the movement, a few of them would be considered “white” by our standards, however they specifically stated that their movement does not solely use an identity politics for its operation because they need to chance the perceptions of non-Afro-Brasilians in Recife, as well as in the rest of the country.
We visited a school on our final day in Recife which educates youth on their African Heritage, specifically how it has melded culture of dance, music, and art in Brazil. We viewed an absolutely phenomenal show a group of kids put on for us. Here’s a picture of it:

After Recife, we departed for Salvador, which is considered the beating heart of not only Black Brazil, but of Brazilian culture in general – Capoeira, Samba, Music, etc. About 90% of Salvador’s population is of African Descent, and you can see that they are very proud of it in the city. Many communities in Salvador are deeply rooted to Candomblé, a religion which started in Nigeria. We visited a few Candomblé houses and had to wear all white out of respect for the religion and head priestesses. One of the issues which we continually discussed at the Candomblé houses we visited was how many people perceive it not to be a religion because it is not monotheistic. Additionally, it became apparent through our dialogue that the Evangelists in Brazil are the main culprits of this counter-movement because they finance campaigns of politicians and speak badly upon followers of Candomblé. When the Portuguese came to Salvador, they were very concerned with controlling the area we now call Bahia because of the productivity of its land. While doing so, they were incredibly interested in transplanting the catholic church there. It was apparent when we visited this church in Pellerino in which it is rumored that the Portuguese built it with over 1,000 kg of Gold. Take a look for yourself:

An interesting part about Salvador is from a city planning perspective. The city has two major parts Cidade Baixa and Cidade Alta – Lower and Upper City -. If I could describe the city layout, it is as if the entire city is located on hills, and the roads are located in a mesh of green, vegetative-lined streets at the foots of the hills. Additionally, is that the city is VERY old, and has a very European feel because of the Portuguese.
The most enjoyable part of Salvador was when we visited Dida, a group of all-female drummers who play a form of music called SambaReggae. These girls were really, really good. They even invited us to play a bit with them. You can see me in the mirror, playing the Funda, or bassdrum:

Music was a huge part of the trip, considering that we not only saw Ivete Sangalo’s condominium, but also that we traveled to Cachoeira, which is considered the place were Samba was preserved in Brazil. However, on the way, we passed kilometers of Sugarcane fields. It was similar to passing miles and miles of cornfields which exist all throughout Indiana, however the actual Sugarcane plant has razor sharp leaves, which will seriously hurt you (It puts into perspective how rutheless the Portuguese were with slavery in comparison to the United States, farming a crop 24 hours a day which inflicts serious pain when harvesting without protection). On our way to Cachoeira, we also passed through the little town of Santo Amaro, which for those of you that don’t know, is the birthplace of the greatest Brazilian artist of all time (in my opinion), Caetano Veloso. It all continued to make sense to me why the majority of Caetano’s songs speak of Bahia. To make it even more painful that my time in Salvador was limited, I realized that on the night of my departure (November 7th), Caetano Veloso was playing a concert in Salvador for $R30.
This week, I am starting my Independent Research in a community called Almecegas, about 150km northwest of Fortaleza. I will be studying Escola Santa Luiza, and the Inclusao Digital project which was constructed in 2005 by IDER – Instituto Desolvimento e Energias Renovaveis -, an NGO focused on Sustainable Development through education on the environment and the utilization of renwable energy technologies.
Until next time, you can enjoy a picture from one of my American friend’s birthday with a few other SIT students. The guy in the middle is my GCB Capoeira professor, Paulo.

Ate Mais =)


Dilma Rousseff is the favorite to win the next election because of her support from the current president, Lula Ignacio da Silva. Lula is viewed as a saint here in Brazil because he is the first president who is NOT from the priviledged class in Brazil. He grew up in a poor family in Pernambuco (The Northeast) in which his family’s main source of income was from his mother who swept floors and did other housework in his town. The reason why Dilma is going to win is because of the relationship she has with Da Silva and his high approval rating (Around 80%). Da Silva has openly given his support to Dilma, and considering how Da Silva has improved social programs (Bolsa Familia’) and brought millions of Brazilians out of poverty, some people will vote for whomever he thinks will do the best job. What’s interesting about Dilma is that she is a LESBIAN (Sapatao, in Portuguese). She does not openly flaunt her sexual orientation, but it’s very interesting that this country even with its negative perspectives on Gay culture, could overcome this hurdle and elect the first Gay president in Brazil, and I think in the world.
Jose Serra is also another large contender specifically because he has visited the Northeast. The Northeast of Brazil (Bahia, Ceara’, Pernambuco, Rio Grande do Norte, etc.) is the poorest region of Brazil. Jose Serra has recognized this problem and has made many visits to the Northeast, specifically Ceara’ this past summer and during the election. He has won many supporters, however, his suspect political activity and financing has created some discontent and distrust for electing him as the next President of Brazil.
Marina Silva is the final major candidate for the election. Marina is the “Dark Horse” so to speak of the election. Many people here compare her to Obama because of her ability to organize within the Amazon and to focus on the major issues within Brazilian society (Social Exclusion of the Amazonian regions, The Environment, and Education). Marina was born in the poorest state of Brazil (Acre), which is located on the far west corner of Brazil, neighboring Peru. Marina’s big story is that she has been an educator in Brazil for quite some time. The NY Times published a very good article today about how Brazil’s status in the “BRIC” is heavily threatened by its inability to provide fair and equal education to its society. Education is one of Marina’s main platforms and the Brazilian people will support her if she is sincere with this plan. Additionally, Marina is an environmentalist, serving as the Ministeria do meio-ambiente (Environmental Minister) of Brasil. She has successfully pushed many programs for preserving the Amazonian regions of Brasil and including them into Brazilian society.

